Vesta German Shepherds

Kids and Dogs - Made for Each Other?
by Christine Gajda

published in Schutzhund USA Magazine (May/June 2006)

Today protection sports are experiencing a rise in the number of so-called family dogs that are participating. Many of the dogs that we see at training are also housedogs that live with families with young children. The ideal protection trained dog has solid nerve and temperament, is not a menace to society, and is safe around people and children. With the constant threat of breed bans and common misconceptions about the sport, it is more important than ever to educate our children about appropriate behavior around dogs, and to insist that our canines are good citizens and examples of the breed. While many ideas are discussed below, most of them can be summed up in one word: supervision.

As the leader of your home, it is your job to ensure that everyone behaves appropriately. Dogs and kids LOVE mischief, and can make quite a formidable team digging up gardens, eating food between meals, redecorating the house with toys, and all sorts of other forbidden activities. It’s nice to know you can safely “leave the dog and the kids in the backyard together”, but don’t be surprised when they have redesigned the landscaping. Also very important to remember is that dogs are by nature social climbers, and children in your absence may behave entirely differently than when you are around. Who will be the boss in your absence? Dogs should never be the leader, and young children cannot. Keep the situations where your children and dogs are together under control and predictable, not just in their actions together, but even more importantly in their interaction with each other. If you take a break from being the leader, someone WILL fill your spot.

Don’t allow children to take advantage of a dog’s tolerance. Children are small, make quick sudden moves, fall unexpectedly, and may on occasion do many things quite innocently that can be threatening to a dog. It is wonderful to see a dog with a solid temperament that does not react, however, just because a dog will tolerate any and all actions does not mean that he should be expected to on a daily basis. A teething toddler may innocently bite a dog’s ear. Kids may fall on the dog, run and jump over him, step on tails, all without malice, but they should not be allowed to do so, simply because the dog will tolerate it. It is wonderful to realize that your dog is a saint, but this is nothing to brag about (“My dog will take anything my kids dish out…” is heard all too often) as it shows a serious lack of supervision and poor attitude of disrespect for the dog. Children should be taught to treat others - INCLUDING animals - with respect. It is the parents’ job to instruct and enforce appropriate and considerate behaviors. Conversely, do not allow a dog to take advantage of a child’s small stature. This includes allowing the dog to take things, such as toys and food, from the child, and being allowed to run boisterously through the house knocking small children over. A dog that lives in the house must possess manners.

Pay attention to your dog’s health. An ear infection or cut paw may make a dog less tolerant than normal. A dog with arthritis may have mood swings dependant on the weather. A female in season may react differently than normal because of hormonal changes. Children will not necessarily understand this, and paying attention to your dog’s health will minimize the risk of any abnormal reaction to a child by the dog. If a dog that is normally appropriate around children begins showing strange behaviors, take time to analyze what has changed. Could there be a medical issue? Perhaps a trip to the vet is in order. Obviously the dog could simply be “pulling rank”, but a dog that is physically uncomfortable or in pain will show it in how he reacts to what normally is not a problem.

People have children, and children have friends. Remember that not all children who visit your home are comfortable around dogs. Likewise, not all children who visit your home know appropriate behavior around dogs. Your presence will help make the visit positive for all. Your dog is your responsibility, and this can be a fantastic opportunity to educate others about appropriate behavior around dogs. If the visitors are unreceptive, don’t allow your dog or children to be placed in an uncomfortable situation. Do not allow other people’s children to inadvertently intimidate or harass your dog. Out of fairness to your dog, do not place him in a position that he is forced to react, and then will be labeled “mean” by the neighbor’s kids. When in doubt, crate the dog!

Watch for warning signs that a dog may give that a child will not pick up on - a stiffened posture, direct stare, hackles up, teeth showing, or growl. Be aware of what prompted the reaction, and deal with it accordingly. Also watch for innocent gestures that a child may make, that a dog may see as threatening. Running top speed through the house in full Darth Vader costume waving a toy light saber may be great fun for your child, but could easily startle and threaten for a sleeping dog. Being aware of what your children and dogs are doing minimizes and risk for “misunderstandings”. If your children are ready for some wild play, and the dog is sleeping, crate the dog! Everyone will be happier.

Teach your children to respect the training field. For the future of the sport and breed, it is imperative that children must be exposed to and involved with our sport. Schutzhund training days should be, whenever possible, a family affair. Club days, however, are a time that people come together to exchange ideas, proof their dogs, try new skills, and prepare for trials. While having children around can provide excellent distractions (one never knows when children will be present at a trial or show), children should not be permitted to interfere with what club members are attempting to do with their dogs. Loud, boisterous behavior can easily interfere with both a handler’s and a dog’s focus. Additionally, children need supervision to keep them a proper distance from the training field, especially when dogs are working off lead. Although many club members may be willing to help, parents that bring their children to training, trials and shows should be primarily responsible for their supervision - it should not become a group babysitting experience. Training, although enjoyable, is also serious and should be treated as such and respected. Supervising your children makes them welcome at all events.

On the opposite side of this, for those who do not have children at training, remember that the children of today are the dog owners, voters, and legislators of tomorrow. Keep your behavior towards fellow club members and their dogs respectful. Frustrations in training should not result in a barrage of swearing. If someone’s children are distracting you, let them know and ask them to keep their children quiet. Nothing is gained by “dealing with it” and then complaining later to other club members. Having clear club rules about what is expected if children are present at training goes a long way toward preventing problems. Another issue important to all of us in the sport is cleaning up after your dog. This is an issue not only of common courtesy that should be standard with all dog owners, but of is of extra importance if there are small children around.

Involving your children in the dog’s care is a wonderful way to teach responsibility to your children, and additionally helps the dog maintain a proper place in the pack. This being said, however, do not place sole responsibility for the dog’s care in the child’s hands. Children live with their parents for a reason: they are not able to care for themselves. One can logically infer that they are not able to care completely for another living being. Yes, they may be able to brush the dog on their own, or help with mealtimes, but the overall care of the dog must rest on the adult in the house. An adult must be responsible for recognizing when the dog needs to visit a vet, when a dog is eating too little or too much, or any of a myriad of subtle issues that can arise. Even seemingly simple tasks such as brushing the dog or putting the food bowl on the ground should be supervised, to ensure that it is being done properly. (Note: a great way to have a child feed the dog is to have them ask for a “sitz” or “platz” before putting the food bowl on the ground - it reinforces their status in the pack, reinforces training, and also helps keep the dog from enthusiastically knocking the bowl out of the child’s hands and spilling kibble all over. It must be supervised though, as the dog may not initially heed the child’s command, and the child will most likely put the food on the ground anyway, thus rewarding ignoring a command!)

Just as we teach our children not to talk to strangers, we need to educate them on how to act around unfamiliar dogs, especially strays. Not all dogs are comfortable around children - quite frankly, not all dogs are comfortable around people. A dog that has been abused and hit may react negatively if a child reaches to pet its head. A dog that has had bad experiences with children may be wary or defensive with all children. Teach children not to run enthusiastically up to strange dogs. Teach children to always ASK FIRST before petting another person’s dog. Teach children what to do if a dog threatens them. Teach them that running and screaming can incite a chase - either in fun, or otherwise. Just as the one-in-a-million person may not have the best intentions toward a child, the same may apply to dogs. Not educating children for this possibility, however unlikely, is neglect. Children that grow up with a stable, well-mannered dog will often assume that all dogs are the same way.

Being a responsible parent and a responsible owner go hand in hand. Allowing either your children or your dogs to be unsupervised affects everyone, whether it is a neighbor that finds your dogs annoying, or the club member that dreads having your children around. What better example of the breed can be found than a dog that is strong on the protection field, yet still safe around children? And what better way to encourage the future of the sport than to welcome children with their parents at clubs? These are important, but as owners, parents, and club members, we all need to take responsibility that behaviors of everyone involved, in all situations - whether it be at home, training, or out in public - are supervised and managed to the benefit of everyone.

The Search for a Breeder

By Christine Gajda

(originally published in USA magazine, Jan/Feb 2007)

The decision to purchase a German Shepherd Dog can lead a potential owner into a confusing maze of questions and promises. What should be a happy, stree-free event can often turn into a perplexing puzzle. Considering that the lifespan of a German Shepherd will be 10 years or more, this is certainly a decision not to be taken lightly. Poor choice of a breeder can leave you with an unhealthy dog or one with poor or questionable temperament. Finding a good breeder takes time and research, but it is well worth the effort. In buying a dog you are entering into a relationship with the dog’s breeder. Their knowledge and choice of breeding stock, as well as ‘customer support’ after the dog goes home with you can prove to be a blessing or a curse! The following guidelines can help a potential buyer find a responsible breeder that best suits their needs.

KNOW YOUR BREED. Knowing the breed standard is a MUST! Not only will it help you ask intelligent questions of the breeder, it will help you ‘read’ their answers. Furthermore, recognize that there are many ‘types’ of the same breed, beyond the concept of working lines and showlines. Many countries have taken the breed in slightly different directions, and being aware of that will help you find a dog that suits your purposes.

KNOW YOUR QUESTIONS. Formulate a list of questions that you feel are important, and write them out to take with you when you meet the breeder. A responsible breeder will appreciate your thoroughness and not be offended. It is all too easy to get sidetracked when viewing kennels and dogs. It is important that you ask clear questions, and get clear answers. A good breeder will be happy to spend time with you answering your questions, as they will be looking for the best possible homes for their pups. Some important questions to include are:

Can I meet the parents of the litter? Your pup will inherit not only physical characteristics, but temperament as well. Meeting the sire and dam will help give you an idea of what you may have in your home in a few years. If possible, ask to see them work as well.

Are the parents certified to be free of hip dysplasia, and how far back does the certification go? Some registries require this certification, while others do not, but a responsible breeder will NOT breed dogs that are not certified. There is no guarantee that all pups will be free of hip problems, as there are a multitude of contributing factors, but only breeding certified parents reduces the risk of problems. Ask for the OFA or other certification numbers (such as the "a" stamp), and verify them on your own. Unscrupulous breeders may lay claim to certifications and titles that do not exist. This is research time well spent.

How old is the dam? Just because a female is able to produce puppies, does not mean that she should. Breeding a female either too young or too old is a sign of a breeder that is more interested in money than proper breeding practices.

How do you socialize your pups? A good breeder will have a well thought out plan for early socialization. The pups need a variety of regular human contacts, with people of all ages and sizes, as well as exposure to different surfaces to walk on, various noises, objects and situations. Pups should not spend all of their time in their kennel with their littermates.

Can I see the kennel? The entire kennel area should be available to see, and responsible breeders should be happy to show you their clean, humane facilities.

How many dogs are on site, and how many people do you employ? A high dog to human ratio implies that the dogs, although possible clean and well fed, are largely left to themselves. This is especially important when purchasing a puppy, when early human contact is of utmost priority.

Are you involved with showing, training, and titling your dogs and your clients’ dogs? This is a sign of commitment to the breed beyond producing puppies, and allows a breeder to better know their dogs’ strengths and weaknesses, as well as their temperaments. It furthermore shows commitment to continuing education about the breed and how it is developing, as well as confidence in the quality of their stock and the pups they produce. Ask to come watch a training session, and observe how the dogs work and are handled.

Why did you choose to breed these two particular dogs, and how do they compliment each other? A good breeder should have well thought out breeding choices, beyond choosing the most recent winner at a national event or Seiger show. They should be able to explain the rationale for their breeding choices in detail, not just try to impress you with the accomplishments of either parent.

KNOW YOUR TITLES. Breeders love to list their dogs’ titles and awards, and certainly they are worth noting. Keep in mind however, that not all letters following a dog’s name are equal - some denote temperament certificates, AKC titles (such as obedience, rally, and agility), flyball titles, instinct testing and certificates, and so on. The working titles from different countries and organizations alone can create confusion, as essentially the same routines can appear to be different titles (such as SchH, VPG, IPO, ZVV). Every title has it’s place, but don’t be fooled by a long list of letters surrounding a dog’s name. Research what they mean. Determine what is important for you and what you plan to do with your dog.

KNOW YOUR PAPERS AND THE PROCESS INVOLVED IN GETTING THEM. If your dog is whelped in the United States, you will need AKC papers. AKC papers are not an assurance of quality, but simply a way of proving that your dog is purebred. They are also required for entry in many events. If you leave the breeder without the application of individual registration in hand, there is no guarantee that you will ever receive it. The AKC will not intervene in a breeder-client dispute, as it is simply a registry. If a breeder either decides to withhold or is ultimately unable to provide papers for your dog, it is a matter for a lawyer, not the AKC, and one that is not settled cheaply. Furthermore, many breeders sell their pups on limited registration. Be sure that you understand their reasoning, and that you are willing to accept that it may never be lifted. Lastly, there are many complicated scenarios involving imports and breedings outside of the United States that can delay the process of receiving papers. Ask for details and timelines, and realize that there are risks involved. Ethical breeders always deliver their papers, but you should make yourself aware of all details relating to your purchase.

KNOW HOW YOU WILL BE CHOOSING YOUR PUP. A good breeder is just as concerned with which pup you take home as you are, and will make every effort to make a good match. They will ask as many questions of you as you do of them, and should be able to describe what they have observed about various pups in the litter. They should be open to you spending time observing and testing the pups, and should have no problem with you bringing someone along with you to help select the pup, should you desire to do so.

KNOW YOUR CONTRACT. All reputable breeders will offer you a written contract, and it should be available for preview before you put a deposit on a pup. If you desire, you should be able to take a copy home with you to re-read. Many breeders post their contracts on their websites. The contract should be in plain, understandable terms, and not in need of excessive explanation. If you have questions, the breeder should offer clear answers and should be willing to put the clarifications in writing if you ask.

KNOW YOUR GUARANTEES. Most responsible breeders will offer replacement guarantees on dogs which evidence genetic problems such as crippling hip dysplasia. Know the fine points, such as where the diagnosis must be made and in what time frame, how the breeder must be notified, and if the dog must be returned in order to receive a replacement. Even if this is explained to you, it should be in writing, and signed by both parties. Ask if there are provisions in the event that a dog purchased for a specific purpose develops a physical flaw that prevents it’s intended use (example, a ‘top show puppy’ that develops a disqualifying overbite). Good breeders ALWAYS stand behind the pups they produce, keep in mind however, that no breeder should be responsible for owner negligence, and most breeders have clauses to that effect.

KNOW YOUR LOCAL CLUBS. This will prove to be one of the best resources a potential buyer can find. Club members will be thrilled to share their good experiences with a breeder, and will warn you of bad ones. You may be able to see or hear about specific dogs that the breeder has produced that are older and achieving titles. This is time well spent. You will also get an idea of the kind of breeder support you may receive after purchase.

KNOW YOUR CHANCES. Call the Better Business Bureau. Call the AKC. Call the governing organizations for your breed. Ask if there have been complaints filed against a particular breeder. Chances are, there haven’t been, but if there were, it’s best to know in advance that someone was disgruntled enough to file a formal complaint. This doesn’t indicate that the breeder is bad (the buyer may have been at fault), however, it does indicate that further research is needed.

Buying a pup should never be an impulse, quick decision, but rather done as a commitment to the dog for its lifetime. Taking the extra time to research prior to purchase greatly improves your chances of getting a dog that is right for your personality, lifestyle, and goals. There are extensive resources available to potential buyers, and it is important to utilize as many of them as possible. Hopefully the end result will be that the breeder, the buyer, and of course the dog (!) have a happy, long lasting relationship.

MAKE FRIENDS, NOT ENEMIES.......MANNERS MATTER.
by Christine Gajda

originally published in Schutzhund USA Magazine

In the war against breed specific laws, dog owners often unite. Unfortunately when a sport or breed has division in the ranks, it weakens the ability to present a united front. Likewise, it is easy to overlook the almost daily battles that can be won with a large part or the population, those who do not own dogs. These people can be our greatest enemies or our happy allies. Manners and common sense go a long way towards winning public favor, not to mention strengthening and uniting our sport from within.

One of the most fundamental duties of dog ownership is cleaning up after your dog. Sad to say, there are those who do not. Having been to numerous Seiger Shows and other national events, I am horrified at the amount of excrement left behind. Nothing infuriates someone more than stepping in a “pile” in a public place, and then being faced with the unpleasant task of cleaning their shoes before entering a building or their own car. If we, as a community cannot manage the basic responsibility of cleaning up after our dogs, how can we hope to convice the public that we are responsible enough to train our dogs in bitework? How can we expect hotels and stadiums to welcome us? How can we win ‘friends of the sport’ when they are unable to walk through the mess at a public event? Sometimes all it takes is one ‘pile’ to make an enemy or lose a potential sponsor. Although host clubs usually make sure that clean up tools and buckets are available, carry a bag with you in the event that you can't locate clean up tools. Make leaving public grounds clean a personal responsibility. As with everything, you must be responsible for your own dog. Not cleaning up when your dog does his "business" is not only unsanitary, it is irresponsible and rude.

As much as we love to present our dogs clean and groomed, this presents yet another area that we must practice common courtesy. Leaving piles of hair in hotel rooms and hotel bathtubs is inexcusable and shows complete disregard for facilities who welcome us. At many events, host hotels will designate a grooming room - please use it, and leave it clean. Presenting excessive, out of the ordinary cleaning after we leave is a guarantee to be unwelcome in the future.

As strange as it may seem, keeping your dog leashed while in public is appreciated by many. This is especially important while staying at hotels. Statistics show that many people travel nowadays with their dogs, and an increasing number of hotels are allowing pets. This of course is very nice for those travelling to compete and show, but also increases the likelihood that you will encounter other dog owners and breeds at the same hotel. Even if your dog is under excellent off lead control and has an impeccable temperament, many people are uncomfortable with large dogs, especially those of working breeds. Having your dog leashed presents a responsible image to the public and will make other travellers feel at ease walking their dogs or being outside with their young children. Another reason to keep your dog leashed is that it offers better control of any potential disasters with other dogs. A good driver not only pays attention to how he is driving, but how others are driving as well. In the event that there is an 'incident' it is always better if you have complied with leash requirements.

Yet another point of hotel etiquette pertains to leaving your dogs unsupervised in your trailer or crated in your car. Dogs bark. Offsetting your parking space, parking your car faced away from the hotel, and even restricting your dog’s view from the car reduces the liklihood that your dogs will draw complaints from the other guests. Keep in mind also, that if you have proudly displayed a German Shepherd, USA, or sport decal on your vehicle, any complaints associated with your dog’s behavior will reflect poorly on our breed and organization. Rather than a complaint being “A dog has been barking for an hour straight”, it might be “A German Shepherd in a van with a USA decal has been barking for an hour straight”. When in public, realize you are a representative of what you hold dear. Behave in a manner that promotes it, not detracts from it.

Control your dog and manage all encounters. Don’t allow your dog to be placed in a position that he might be forced to react, and then labelled “unfriendly” or “mean” by a stranger. Many people are unaware of proper ettiquette with regards to dogs (especially encounters between two dogs), and do not hesitate to politely take control of a situation that you anticipate may be problematic. Likewise, make sure that when entering and exiting hotels, your dog is well-behaved and supervised. Keep your dog close in stairwells and near corners in hallways. Sadly, I have seen parents who allow their children to race in hotel hallways, or allow their family pet to pull to the end of a long leash. This could make for an unfair encounter for your dog. Nothing promotes a breed like a well trained dog, and nothing detracts from a breed like an unmanaged one. Remain polite, friendly, and professional to other guests while controlling the situations that arise.

Trials may attract spectators, ranging from visitors from other clubs, to people who are just curious about the sport. I have been appalled on a few occasions by the utter lack of respect for fellow competitors. In one instance, a ‘veteran’ of the sport very loudly criticized a new handler over and over while he was in the midst of his first BH routine with a very young dog. Sadly, his wife was nearby and heard the whole tirade, as were a few people new to the sport. A few others stepped in to diffuse the situation, but the damage had been done. Not all aspire to compete at national levels, but verbal outbursts, overt criticism, and lack of support for newcomers does nothing but hinder the growth of the sport and cause dissention.

An important part of any trial is the judge’s critique. Be quiet and listen! Even if you have no inclination to learn from what is being said, others do. Talking during a critique shows utter lack of respect for the judge, handler, and other spectators. Offer congratulations where due, and support when needed. Behave in a sportsmanlike manner at all times. Promote a positive atmosphere and the sport will grow.

Many national events allow pre-event practice time for competitors. These people have worked tirelessly to attain this level, and participation is often the result of many years of hard work and monetary investment. Respect them. Do not use the competition fields as a chance to practice in new surroundings with a dog that is not entered in the event - the facilities are for the competitors! Many have travelled far and need time to acclimate their dog to the venue, changes in climate, new helpers, and a myriad of other variables. Furthermore, do not bring your dog near the show ring or trial field for "socialization" - this presents an unfair distraction and even potential for complete disruption of the event (for example, if a dog on the sidelines slips its collar). There are plenty of opportunities for training and socialization elsewhere.

When visting a club, inquire about club rules, guest fees, and take a moment to familiarize yourself with the order of things. Ask where tracks have been laid, how many dogs are allowed while doing obedience, and where in the order your dogs should fall. Meet the helper and give a brief explanation of what your dog has done with others if possible. Pay attention to what others are doing on the field and you will have a better undertanding of what is expected when your turn arrives. Have your dog ready in advance. If using food while working, take care that you don't leave missed treats all over the ground, as it can be tremendously distracting for other dogs. Also make sure to remove toys, dumbells, voraus sticks, and anything else that you have carried with you out onto the field. On hot days, share the shade. Being a good guest opens the door for a profitable training session, and will make clubs be happy to see you return.

Being a good guest goes hand in hand with being a good host! Make things easier for your guest trainers by having club rules printed out and someone to whose job is to point out the potty areas and collect training fees. Introduce yourselves to visitors! Be able to answer questions - some people may know little or nothing about Schutzhund and first impressions are very important. Have an understanding in your club of how our sport relates to police and Search and Rescue work, in the event that someone asks! Collect their name and contact information so that you may invite them to watch or enter trials and shows.

Many handlers suffer from pre-trial nerves, and a way to make people feel more at ease is to offer guest training to competitors before trials. It will be much appreciated! This allows entrants a chance to feel 'at home' on the field, and prepare for any variations from their own club (such as blind searches that start the opposite way). Please do not use this time to try to re-invent or critique someone's training program, but rather offer support and do whatever you can to make the trial experience fun and successful. I have seen people show up the week before a trial to acclimate to a field and be so heavily criticized that they decide not to enter. No one benefits from this type experience. Likewise, if you do have outsiders in your club trial, give awards where awards are due. Witholding trophies because someone is not a club member is a sad commentary on the pettiness that often exists in our sport.

Many clubs are encouraging the public to attend shows, especially Seiger Shows, in hopes of boosting our public image and educating the public about our breed. While a noble thought, the "art" of double handling is enough to scare almost anyone away. Imagine being a spectator, taking an afternoon to check out the magnificent German Shepherds that you read about in the Seiger Show press release. Your family arrives, you purchase a show catalog, and find a good vantage point where you can easily see all the dogs. The first class starts and in no time a sweaty, out of breath stranger crouches behind you, and proceeds to repeatedly blow a loud duck call from behind your ankles. You think it's very strange, even rude, but you're thinking of buying German Shepherd and would like to see the dogs in the show, perhaps even talk to some breeders. The next class starts and suddenly a different person is using your wife as a shield, waving a toy so close to her head that it's rearranging her hair, and making strange cries that resemble wounded Indians in battle. You ask them to please move and they actually argue with you. The final straw is when someone running and holding a beer nearly runs over your child. You decide that visiting an AKC show might be a better option for viewing German Shepherds, and leave the show. Regrettably, this example is not far removed from reality. It is possible to have your dog so well ring trained that being out of sight and occasionally calling your dog is all that is needed - if you watch closely at shows you will see owners that do not make fools of themselves while their dog is in the ring. Unfortunately their good behavior is overrun by the antics of the average double handler. Host clubs can help prevent problems by providing a ring specifically for the double handlers, but the fact remains that many will not use it, choosing to instead hide behind people in the crowd. Please remember that presenting your dog well in the ring should be the culmination of training. Excessive cries, unearthly noises, and toys being waved around like deadly weapons need not be part of a show presentation. A conformation show should not look like the running of the bulls. I'm sure there are many people who do not show simply because they do not want to be associated with such bizarre behaviors.

Space and land for Schutzhund events is a luxury. Property owners that allow use of their land for our activities should be held in highest regard! Respect their requests. If training is Sunday from 9:00 - 3:00, respect those hours. Do not show up early, leave late, or come on another day. If they wish that potty areas are confined to one area, make sure that everyone knows the rules and abides by them. Show appreciation and respect and your club will be welcomed for years. A club without training grounds will cease to exist.

Dogsports have many large yet diverse organizations, but we all share a love for our breeds and our sports. Every time we are in public, we are under scrutiny, and those without manners hurt our public image in ways that are sometimes hard to repair. Taking responsibility for your own actions is the first step in improving relations within the sport, but insisting on proper behavior at all times among our ranks will go a long way to improving our public image!

Equipment Basics

by Christine Gajda

Originally published in Schutzhund USA Magazine

New to Schutzhund or Dogsport? There is a dizzying amount of equipment on the market. Here is a breakdown of the basics to get you started.

TRACKING:

- Food - More than likely, you will be using food as bait/reward on your tracks. Choose something that will be easy to swallow so as not to disrupt the work, and something that will not attract ants.

- Weather proof shoes or boots - Much of tracking is done in damp or even wet conditions, so making sure your feet stay dry will keep you comfortable while working.

- Tracking Flag - You will need to mark the start point of each track. You can find metal marker flags at most home improvement stores.

- Markers - Carpenter’s chalk, metal washers with plastic tape, or other unobtrusive items can be easily made and help you keep track of your corners.

- Long line - Even though initially you will be very close to your dog, having a practice long line of at least 15 feet allows you to gain some distance as your dog progresses. Regulation length for trials is 33 feet, and having a line that is impervious to moisture and snags is definitely a plus! Remember, the rules state that the handler must be at the end of the tracking line, so having a line longer than 33 feet means that you will be that much further from your dog in a trial.

- Bottcher Harness - Although some trainers advocate attaching the line directly to the collar, a Bottcher tracking harness is an excellent option as well. It attaches to the dead ring of the fursaver with a clip, and runs under the belly of the dog. A second strap wraps around the midsection of the dog and clips closed. The tracking line attaches underneath the belly. When pulling hard on the track, this harness creates a downward pressure on the neck, helping keep the dog's nose on the ground. It is easy to put on and take off, and takes very little space - barely more than a leash - in your training bag.

- Articles - Have some practice articles of various materials such as leather, wood, carpet, and fabric.

OBEDIENCE:

- Fur Saver - The collar of choice for Schutzhund, it is a large link slip collar that can be used on the live or dead ring. If your dog is young and still growing, you can purchase an adult sized collar and fold the live ring back over the collar and attach your leash through two links, essentially shortening the collar.

- Prong collar - This collar is a great training tool, allowing the handler to correct the dog without using much force. The prongs on the inside of the collar do not press into the dogs neck, but rather pinch together, mimicking a mother dog's correcting nips at her pups. It is available in large, medium, and small links. The smaller links provide the most correction. When using any correction collar, be sure to consult your training director regarding the proper fit and use.

- Toys - Many recommend the use of toys as rewards, the most popular being a ball on a string or a tug. The type of ball or tug is generally a matter of what you (and your dog) prefer, so you may have to experiment a bit to find what works best.

- Obedience leash - Sometimes called a “belt leash,” an obedience leash is generally thin enough to double up in your hand, and sized so that it can be clipped around your waist when working off lead. Some obedience leashes have “O rings” in the handles for that purpose, with others the material is narrow enough that the clip can attach directly into the handle.

- Dumbells - The foundation for dumbell work is often laid long before a Schutzhund 1 is in sight. It’s not necessary to purchase a whole set initially, although some retailers offer a better value when buying all three.

- Long line - Often people use a lightweight long line for obedience work, to reinforce recalls and long downs, and anything else that may require distance from your dog.

PROTECTION:

- Agitation collar or harness - Different trainers recommend different items, but since your dog will spend much of the time pulling very hard into the leash, it is generally conceded that a fur saver restricts the air. Some trainers will recommend a 2 inch wide collar, which offers support for the neck, and others prefer a harness, which places no restriction on the neck at all.

- Long line - This can be the same long line as what is used as a practice line in tracking or obedience, but it must be sturdy and easy to hold. Most trainers recommend 15-20 feet.

Of course, with all the above, you will find a gear bag or tool box very useful in keeping everything organized! Be sure to talk with your training director for specific recommendations about items and how to use them. Having the right equipment on hand makes training easier and more profitable!

Examining Sportsmanship

by Christine Gajda

originally published in Schutzhund USA Magazine

Do you exhibit good sportsmanship?

Most of us would be quick to answer “yes” to this question. Most often, when thinking of this topic, the image of graciously accepting a critique or result comes to mind. Sportsmanship, however, covers a much broader definition, and is worth examination. Unfortunately, by virtue of owning a working breed and taking part in a sport that involves biting, we place ourselves in a precarious position with the general public. Everything that we do must represent our breed and sport in a positive light. There is no room for acting in ways that detract from the sport, either real or perceived. Sportsmanship is not only about winning and losing, but involves taking time to think about the “big picture” of what we are doing, and helping find ways to make this more widely understood with the general public.

Sportsmanship adds a touch of class. Welcome your visitors. If you have club rules, have them readily available to help avoid misunderstandings. Explain where the potty areas are, and remind guests to clean up after their dogs. Appoint a club member to collect guest training fees so a visitor doesn’t need to ask around, and collect contact information so that you may invite the guests to other club events such as trials and seminars.

Sportsmanship means being aware of your surroundings and your audience. Training methods vary, and the levels of correction vary as well. Remember that we are under scrutiny and need to promote humane training methods in public. Our actions may be someone’s first impression of the sport.

Sportsmanship means being aware of who is listening. Be careful how you brag! Talking amongst club members about a “bone crushing grip” is fine, but saying the same thing to a person who is unfamiliar with the sport can be detrimental and completely misunderstood. Colorfully expressing frustration among friends may be accepted at some clubs, however, sportsmanship means controlling your temper and vocabulary when guests are present, especially those with children.

Sportsmanship means helping the newcomers get started. When breeders have found committed, caring owners, it is our responsibility to the future of the breed to encourage those who want to get involved with our sport. Fostering an atmosphere of support and respect in our clubs will benefit everyone. Helping mentor a new handler encourages growth in the sport, and will be greatly appreciated.

Sportsmanship means getting everyone in the club involved. Walk along with each other’s tracks, lay tracks for one another, help set up the equipment, and be part of the group. Set up distractions and ‘crowds’ while your dog is working so the extra people on trial day don’t come as a surprise. Keeping everyone busy leaves less time for criticism and gossip, and makes more of a team atmosphere in the club.

Sportsmanship means remembering that not every club or every training method will work for every dog. There is not ONE WAY to train and achieve titles, there are many. What may work for one dog and handler, may not work for another. Good training means the skill to understand the needs of each handler and dog, and the open mind to find the method the helps them improve. Sportsmanship means not criticizing those whose methods are different than yours.

Sportsmanship means respecting the efforts of others. Offer constructive feedback, not criticism. Ask yourself how you can help improve the things, and become proactive. Our organization is comprised of many volunteers. Appreciate and respect their hard work and efforts, and be willing to help whenever possible.

Sportsmanship means supporting each other. Celebrate with the good results, and encourage those who need it. Many people are intimidated by the thought of a trial, and having a good, supportive club makes entries easier.

Sportsmanship means fostering good relations between clubs. Dogs and handlers alike will benefit from occasional training on other fields and with other helpers. Having friendly working support with neighboring clubs will increase your knowledge, foster friendships, and may even boost your trial entries.

Sportsmanship means getting involved with education. Club websites can be a perfect medium for educating the public. Include a brief history of the sport and breed. Include photos of dogs working in all phases, to remind the public that our sport is not “all about biting.” Include photos of dogs as part of our lives, with our families and in our homes, showing that they are safe in public, and not just “a dog on the competition field.” Show how our sport is related to dogs with jobs, such as police K9s and Search and Rescue dogs. Include a brief explanation of how your club is run, and what a guest should bring along. Not everyone knows what equipment to bring, and if someone comes prepared, training runs more smoothly for everyone. Be involved in community events and dog safety demonstrations in schools.

Our actions will either harm or enhance the sport. Make a commitment to yourself, and to the future of the breed, not to tolerate unsportsmanlike behavior. Speak up when you see it, and support those who do. The world is watching, and unfortunately the bad incidents are most often remembered. We must continually ask ourselves, “How are my actions benefiting the sport?”

How would you rate your own sportsmanship? And that of your club?

Showing 101 - A Look at the German Breed Ring for German Shepherd Dogs

by Christine Gajda

originally published in Schutzhund USA Magazine

Showlines, working lines, or a mix of the two, getting a conformation rating is an important part of evaluating your dog. It is mandatory if you want to have a breed survey done. Shows also offer a chance to be involved in a formal venue with a dog that is still too young for entering a trial. With some preparation and knowledge, it is possible to make a good presentation in the ring.

Equipment you will need:

Handler: Most dogs will look their best while seaching for their owners outside the ring, therefore the majority of show entrants will use another person to handle their dog. Yet another advantage of having a handler is that they know ring procedure and how to manage the dog in the ring, and it generally makes for a more polished presentation. It is possible to handle your own dog, but be prepared that your dog may suddenly want to heel next to you, rather than gait out in front of you, and this will affect your result in the ring. Also, judges do appreciate polished performances, so if you plan to handle you dog, make sure you are familiar with the way a class is run.

Show collar : There are several types of show collars available. None are required, as you may show your dog in a fur saver on the dead ring. All-metal show collars with specially molded fronts are the most widely used, and they offer some support to the trachea while pulling into the collar. At times you may see a collar with a padded leather front, again, to relieve some of the pressure while pulling in the ring. Show collars are usually very large on the neck, with the leash attachment generally resting near the withers! Attentive handling prevents the dog from ducking out of the collar.

Show lead: The standard length for show leads is 2.5m, or approximately 7.5 feet, however you may see anything from 6-9 feet long in the ring. The main reason judges prefer a long lead length is so that they may get a clear view of the dog without the handler in the picture. The width and length of the lead is generally the handler’s preference, in fact, many handlers will simply use their favorite leash while in the ring. Please remember many times handlers have classes back to back, and may not be able to let you walk your dog back to his crate with their leash. Make sure to have a leash with you at the end of the class.

Understanding the classes:

Females always show before males. A show will start with the youngest classes and advance by age, except in the case of the Veterans Class, which usually preceeds the Working Class. At Sieger Shows there will also be Progeny Groups and Kennel Groups, which demonstrate a cross section of what a particular dog or kennel is producing.

The youngest classes at a show are 3-6 months, and at times 4-6 months. Other puppy classes include 6-9 months, and 9-12 months. The ratings offered in these clases are VP, P, and LP. VP is the highest rating possible, and simply indicates that at this growth stage, the puppy is “Very Promising”. Puppy classes tend to be somewhat laid back, as the judges are aware of the rapid changes pups go though on a weekly basis.

Next are the Youth Classes, which are 12-18 months, and 18-24 months. Dogs may posses a working title and still show in these classes, as they are age specific. Ratings offered are SG (very good), G (good), A (satisfactory) and U (unsatisfactory). At this age, the show rating CAN count towards the rating for a breed survey. Also, in all classes for dogs over 1 year old, there is a gunshot test, where the judge fires a blank gun to test the dogs for sound sensitivity. Dogs must stand on a loose leash and those that show avoidance to the gun will be dismissed from the ring.

The Veterans Class is for dogs ages 6 years and older that opt to not show in the Working Class.
Dogs do not recive ratings in this class, but are placed in the order the judge sees fit. These dogs must posess a working title.

The Working Class is for dogs 24 months and up that posess either a Schutzhund or HGH title. After the age of 3 1/2 they must also be breed surveyed in order to be eligible for a V rating. Ratings offered at local and regional shows are V (excellent), SG (very good), G (good), A (satisfactory) and U (unsatisfactory), and M (insufficient). Sieger Shows also offer VA ratings, which translates to “Excellent Select”. There are very strict criteria for being awarded a VA placing, including more stringent title requirements and minimum requirements in the pedigree of the dog. Unique to the working class, the owner (or someone the owner designates) must perform an off lead fast lap with the dog. At Sieger Shows, there is also a performance evaluation, where all dogs must perform the Attack out of the Blind, and a Courage Test.

Ring Procedure:

When dogs enter for each class they are placed in catalog order and will sometimes gait for a lap or 2 in that order. What follows is the “Stand for Exam”, and is made up of several components. The judge will examine the dentition of the dogs (at Sieger Shows sometimes a ring steward will do this) to confirm that the bite and number of teeth are correct. With male dogs, he will also examine the testicles to make sure both are present. Following this, the handler will “stack” the dog, which gives the judge a chance to evaluate the anatomy of the dog in a posed position. When he has made adequate notes, he will ask for the “Up and Back”, where the handler walks the dog in a straight line away from the judge, and when indicated, turns and walks directly to the judge. This allows the judge to see how the bones in the front and rear are aligned. The handler will then gait the dog in an individual fast lap, which should be a trot, but not need be a sprint. Throughout the whole evaluation, the judge will note the color, pigment, conditioning and overall temperament of the dog. After all dogs have completed the Stand for Exam, in classes over 12 months, the dogs will remain in catalog order for the gunshot test, which is sometimes divided into groups. Following this the judge will place the dogs in a preliminary order of placings. With gaiting as a group, he may move several dogs up and back in position. The amount of time gaiting is up the to discretion of the judge.

Understanding Placings:

Each dog will recieve a show rating and a placing. You will find that some dogs consistently recieve similar placings and ratings, regardless of the judge, while others will place well one time and near the end another. The show rating states how well the dog conforms to the standard, while the placing often reflects the personal preference of the judge or the quality of the presentation by the handler. At a Sieger Show, placings in the working class typically start with VA placings, generally to a maximum of 10. Following the last VA dog, will be the V-1 dog. If there are 20 dogs that receieve a V rating, V-20 will be followed by SG-1, and so on. In most shows, the judge will offer a critique of each dog, explaining the reasonings behind the placings.

Although a working breed, a German Shepherd must also posess sound physical structure. Taking part in a conformation show allows you to get an experienced yet objective opinion of your dog’s physical characteristics!

Vesta German Shepherds

Guardians of the Home and Hearth